Lo Stagnone, Sicily

When we land at the airport in Palermo, we are immediately enveloped by the city’s unique scent – a mixture of sea, sun, petrol, espresso and history. Palermo is not just a place you visit. Palermo is an experience, a wave of sounds, colors and smells that immediately sweeps you away. We stay in a small bed and breakfast in the historic center. From our balcony, we hear the voices of the city – street musicians, honking scooters, traders loudly offering their wares. On our first evening, we already feel the special energy of this place. What’s more, the streets of the center are always busy, around the clock! We stroll through the Quattro Canti, the baroque center of Palermo, and simply let ourselves drift. Every corner seems to tell a new chapter of Sicilian history: Arabic ornaments next to Norman churches, Baroque façades and narrow streets full of life. Of course, a visit to the Mercato di Ballarò is a must. Between fresh fish, fragrant tomatoes, loudly laughing traders and fried arancini, we feel right at home in everyday Sicilian life. We try cannoli with sweet ricotta cream – crispy, creamy, perfect.

The next day, we want to explore the cultural side of the city. Palermo Cathedral impresses us with its mixture of Arabic, Norman and Gothic stylistic elements. Inside, there is an almost mystical tranquility, while outside, life is in full swing. In the afternoon, we drive up to Monreale to see the famous cathedral with its golden mosaics. The view over Palermo is breathtaking! After two intense days in Palermo, it’s time for some kiting, so we set off for Lo Stagnone, a shallow lagoon near Marsala, in the west of the island, about an hour’s drive from Palermo. The journey there is a trip through changing landscapes – from the bustling streets of Palermo to rolling hills, olive groves and finally to the wide plains where the sea and salt fields meet. Salt has been harvested in the region around Marsala for centuries. Everywhere we see white salt mountains and old windmills, which still turn leisurely in the wind.

In Lo Stagnone, we stay right on the waterfront at the hotel Santa Maria. As soon as we wake up, we hear the wind and see the first kites in the huge lagoon from our balcony. We have breakfast on the hotel terrace, overlooking the lagoon – the water glistens in the morning sun, and as we drink our coffee, the first kiters take off. Right next to the hotel is the Duotone Pro Centre, from where I set off to go kiting. It’s incredibly convenient – from the breakfast table straight onto my board. The Duotone Pro Centre is perfectly organized, with friendly instructors, top-of-the-range equipment and a relaxed, open atmosphere where you immediately feel at home.

Lo Stagnone is a paradise for kiters. The shallow water everywhere is a dream for beginners and intermediate riders because in every corner of this huge lagoon, the water is about knee-deep to a maximum of chest-deep. Even far out, you can stand just as well as closer to shore. The seabed is mostly sandy, with only a few rocks in the water. This makes it unique for kiters who want to progress or learn new tricks. As a result, during the holidays in October, we see many families here, with parents teaching their teenagers, and many kite stations. There are 18 official and 22 unofficial kite stations in Lo Stagnone. It is often said that some of the unofficial stations are not run professionally. In some cases, there are no helmets available nor headsets for the instructors to relay instructions via earphones. Better to stick to the established schools to be sure of having the best gear and qualified instructors.

The steady wind and the vastness of the lagoon create perfect conditions. After setting up my kite, I ride across the barely rippling water. The feeling of flying over this huge lagoon is indescribable. The sun reflects off the water’s surface, and in the background you can see the small islands of Isola di Santa Maria and Isola Grande, which protect the lagoon from the open sea. This protection means that even at a wind speed of 20 knots, the water remains nice and calm. It can still be a bit choppy, but way less than, for example, a day on Lake Garda. And these excellent water conditions for beginners and intermediate riders extend across the entire lagoon. The wind is thermal in the summer months, less so in spring and autumn. Either way the wind is usually stronger than forecast, for example, with a forecast of 10-14 knots, you can easily get 14 knots.

The days in Lo Stagnone follow a simple but perfect rhythm: breakfast on the terrace overlooking the salt fields, morning session on the water, lunch break with panini and fresh fruit, then kiting again until sunset. In the evenings, we often sit together with other kiters and families. Of course, we also want to explore the surrounding area. We take a trip to the Saline San Teodoro, a fascinating nature reserve nearby. Between the glittering salt pans and the old mill towers, we observe numerous birds – including many cranes flying low over the shallow water. It is a peaceful, almost magical place where nature and centuries-old salt production meet in harmony.

Another trip takes us to Marsala, about 30 minutes’ drive from the lagoon. The town is famous for its fortified wine, and we don’t miss the opportunity to do a little tasting. The old town of Marsala is charming: light sandstone façades, small cafés, cozy squares. We stroll through the narrow streets, drink cappuccino in the sun and enjoy the relaxed lifestyle: la dolce vita! Another day takes us to Trapani, about 20 minutes away by car, a town nestled between the sea and salt fields. The cable car ride up to Erice, the medieval mountain village above the town, is particularly impressive. From up there, we can see the entire coastline – the wind turbines, the salt pans, the sparkling sea.

On our last evening, we stand once again on the shore of the lagoon. The wind has died down and in the distance, the salt mountains of Marsala glow pink in the light of the setting sun. We feel the sun on our faces, the air temperature still around 23 degrees Celsius – and this deep feeling of contentment. Sicily touches us with its abundance, its passion and its authenticity. Sicily surprised us in every way, from Palermo with its energy, chaos and cultural diversity to Lo Stagnone. Hardly any other spot in Europe offers such magnificent conditions for beginners and advanced riders. The high probability of wind, the easy water conditions, and always being within standing depth, plus the relaxed atmosphere make this place one of the best flat-water spots in Europe. At the same time, Sicily, with its history, cuisine and people, is an island that touches the soul far beyond sport. One thing is certain: we’ll be back!