Kilpisjärvi

Rain poured down outside as I sat in my van in Lofoten, feeling drained. My body wasn’t cooperating – I’d been sick far too often. Fever, flu and every bug making the rounds seemed to find me. Meanwhile, the news was filled with war, suffering and political chaos. Articles about the US flooded my screen. Images from Syria and Ukraine weighed heavily on my mind. I have nothing to complain about compared to them, yet we humans tend to focus on our own struggles. I realized I needed something different – a proper winter with time outdoors, fresh air, adventure and the things I love – to break this cycle.

I checked the weather all over Norway. Everywhere, the forecast showed rain and poor snow conditions. But up north, in Troms and towards Finland, the temperatures were still below freezing. I reached out to Janne, whom I met last year in Kilpisjärvi. He assured me it was a perfect winter up there and invited me to come. I knew the mountains in the area were ideal for snowkiting, but I had not yet had the chance to try them. I packed up my van and started the drive north. It wasn’t far, but the relentless rain made me skeptical. Could it really be that different just a few hours away? With 8°C on the coast, I had my doubts. But as I approached Kilpisjärvi, the landscape transformed – one meter of snow, bright sunshine, wind and minus 10°C…

Kilpisjärvi is a small village in northern Finland, nestled right by the border of Norway and Sweden. Despite its size, it’s a winter paradise for those who love snow, adventure and the outdoors. The area is known for its untouched nature, vast landscapes, and guaranteed cold winters – making it a prime spot for winter sports enthusiasts. Unlike the coastal regions of Norway, where the weather is often unpredictable with frequent rain and fluctuating temperatures, Kilpisjärvi benefits from a stable inland climate, remaining a winter wonderland with crisp air, deep snow, and reliable winds. The mountains surrounding the village create an incredible playground for snowkiters, offering endless terrain to explore. The village itself is small but has everything you need – one grocery store, a few restaurants, and hotels or cabins for accommodation. It’s the perfect size for someone like me who values space, solitude and the ability to be fully immersed in nature.

Janne had spent two months in his van here last winter. Originally from southern Finland, he fell in love with the north and made the move. He found a job, a house, and even a partner – he had truly found his dream life in his dream location. Seeing him so happy, I completely understood why. We met at the Finnish border and I could feel my energy shift. There’s something about the weather and the environment that directly affects your mood. I inflated my kite and together we climbed the mountains, crossing deep into Finland before looping back into Norway. The consistent wind guided us through untouched terrain, allowing us to glide effortlessly over the snow, following the natural contours of the land. The feeling of moving with the wind, completely in sync with nature, was pure magic. We spent hours riding up and down the mountain slopes, carving through powder. I had to stop just to take in the beauty around me. I knew I would be staying here for a while, giving my body and mind the reset they needed.

One of my best friends, Kari, came up from Tromsø to join me, and we soaked in every moment. We chased the best conditions, moving deeper into the mountains where the wind was strongest and the powder untouched. There was something special about following the weather, knowing that just a short drive inland could completely change the experience from stormy to perfect winter conditions.

Over the course of my stay, the forecast often predicted snowstorms, but I would wake up to clear skies and sunshine. The days flew by as I ticked off adventures from my list – sled tours into the mountains, ice fishing, hunting, sauna sessions, ice baths, and of course, countless kite sessions. The northern lights danced across the sky at night, adding to the magic of this place. I can let you into a secret – if you book a northern lights trip to Tromsø, you often end up close to Kilpisjärvi because the weather here is better, and you see the aurora more often.

Kilpisjärvi may be small, but for those of us who love winter and snowkiting in the mountains, it’s an absolute gem. With Finland’s rich sauna culture, it was easy to end the long days with a hot sauna session, letting the warmth sink in before stepping out into the crisp winter night. I came here to reset, to escape the cycle of illness and exhaustion. What I found was more than just good snow and wind – I found peace, energy and a renewed love for the winter season.