Out Back

Western Australia (WA) is one of the oldest landmasses on Earth and, at 2.53 million square kilometers, also the country’s largest state. Out here, the words “remote” and “vast” take on a whole new meaning. The “Wild West” is a legendary playground for wave-lovers from around the globe, whether it’s surfing, kiting, windsurfing, foiling or SUPing. The Indian and Southern Oceans deliver steady groundswells year-round, rolling thousands of kilometers unbroken toward the coast. WA’s waves are powerful. Many of its surf spots are hardcore, often remote, and strictly regulated by locals. And the real locals shouldn’t be underestimated either – from countless shark species in the water to venomous reptiles and cheeky dingos on land. It’s not for the faint-hearted, but that’s exactly why this endless coastline with its world-class waves and raw, untamed nature, offers the ultimate adventure. The best way to experience it? A road trip.

I did my first WA road trip almost 20 years ago and instantly fell in love with the place. A few years later, it became my home. Margaret River, in the southwest, is now my base. When winter sets in down south – bringing storms, rain, and weeks, sometimes months, without sunshine – my Aussie husband, Corey, an obsessed big-wave windsurfer, and I pack up and head north. Every year, we camp for several months in the deep Outback, where the desert meets the Indian Ocean. With the next town nearly 200km away, solid preparation is key. We bring 200 liters of fresh water, 150 liters of diesel and petrol, food supplies, six solar panels, several huge batteries, three fridges (well, two fridges and a freezer for fresh-caught fish), a BBQ, tables, chairs, firewood, tents, countless square meters of shade cloth, and, of course, all our toys: surfboards, kites, windsurf gear, SUPs, fishing rods. We even bring a mountain bike and a couch, because nothing beats sitting by the fire on a couch after a long day in the ocean, staring into the bush TV (the flames). Our tents, like a kite, are inflatable and easy to set up. With their sturdy airframes, they handle wind incredibly well.

Near Exmouth at a remote spot, we set up our home base, which I lovingly call “The Bush Taj Mahal”. Just the packing and prep take two solid weeks; every nook and cranny in our two LandCruisers, trailer and boat gets filled. I tow the boat; Corey tows the trailer. With nearly 20 boards strapped to the roofs, people often assume we’re running a surf school or traveling with a big family. But really, we’re just two wave-obsessed freaks, and given the remoteness and heaviness of the waves, you gotta bring spare boards! Sleeping in a caravan would be easier and more comfortable, but we love our tent and the deep connection to nature that this raw style of living provides. Free camping is technically illegal in WA, but along the Ningaloo Reef, there are several campgrounds to suit all tastes and budgets – from more developed sites in town to ultra-basic bush camps that feel more like Mars than Earth. These remote spots usually have no water, toilets or phone reception, so you’ll need to bring your own portable toilet.

The drive from Margaret River to the northwest takes us several days. That legendary road sign at the 26th parallel, just south of the equator, always brings a massive grin to our faces – this is where the real northwest begins. It’s the remoteness and ruggedness that define this place: deep red earth, golden fields, wild rock formations, huge cattle and sheep stations, tiny gold-rush-era towns in the middle of nowhere, endless Outback plains, and deserts that collide with the turquoise clarity of the Indian Ocean.

The Ningaloo Reef – right off the coast – is the world’s largest fringing coral reef. It starts just north of Carnarvon and stretches over 260 km up to the Muiron Islands near Exmouth. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2011, it’s home to more than 500 species of tropical fish and 220 species of coral. It’s also one of the few reliable places on Earth where the elusive whale shark visits each year, drawn by the mass coral spawning. Despite reaching lengths of up to 16 meters and weighing around 30 tons, these gentle giants glide effortlessly along the reef, feeding on krill. From July to October, about 40,000 humpback whales pass by on their migration between Antarctic feeding grounds and tropical birthing waters. They’re truly massive – up to 19 meters long and 40 tons heavy – and more than once I’ve been sitting in the surf lineup, watching a mama humpback and her calf cruise past. The Nyinggulu Coast (Ningaloo) is also deeply significant to the Aboriginal people, who have been connected to this land for up to 60,000 years. “Nyinggulu” means “deep water” in their language.

Even though Corey and I have spent many seasons out here, every trip is a new adventure. In the raw hands of nature, there are no guarantees. Nights are filled with the sound of the ocean, and the stars feel close enough to touch. Sandstorms can suddenly reduce visibility to zero in a matter of moments and test every peg and rope in camp. When the wind comes from the inland desert, it brings millions of flies – without a head net, eating and drinking become a serious challenge. The heat can be harsh and heavy rain turns the red earth into thick mud. Tents can only keep water out for so long before everything inside gets soaked. Then there are the hidden threats: poisonous snakes, giant spiders, and the ever-present risk of sharks. But that’s exactly what makes it so special – this stripped-back, untamed lifestyle in the heart of nature, far from any creature comforts. Every day brings new challenges, but also magic: sunrise over the vast emptiness, moonset over the ocean, crackling fire under a starlit sky, or the sense of total freedom when you wake up surrounded only by the elements.

The official wind season doesn’t start until late spring, in October. Every year is different. Some seasons are calm, so we spend more time surfing and fishing. Other years bring more wind, and Corey and I live it up on the water – he windsurfing and I kiting. About once a month, we do a town run to restock fresh fruit, veggies, water, diesel and petrol. The northwest has loads of small farms where you can buy produce directly. Over time, we’ve learned what lasts longest and how to store it. For example, we get a 10kg box of green tomatoes that slowly ripen over weeks, perfect for fresh tomato salads with onions and olives. Same with bananas – we usually buy two boxes of green ones. Corey and I are both pescatarians, and he’s an incredible fisherman. We’ve been married for 15 years, and I’ve become a decent fisherwoman under his wing. When there’s no wind or waves, we spend hours out on our 4.2m aluminum dinghy – sometimes all day, which is pushing the relationship haha. It’s tough on the body, but we often come home with great catches. We vacuum-pack and freeze our haul using solar power. The Red Emperor Snapper is the king of the northwest and everyone’s dream catch. Corey and I love this stunning fish and eat every part of it. We even bake the big red head in foil over the fire. The eyes, tongue and lips are the tastiest bits.

The sessions we score out here are unforgettable. Far from civilization and without fast medical help, big swells carry real risk. Sadly, this is a place where lives have been lost and serious injuries do happen. Still, the ocean and the Outback keep calling us back, alive with energy and wild creatures. It’s home to emus, bustards (Australia’s heaviest flying bird, up to 120cm tall and 15kg), thorny devils, and plenty of kangaroos. Among the reptiles are snakes – many harmless, but some deadly. That’s why it’s essential to keep tent doors zipped and food scraps cleaned up. Mice attract snakes and snakes love mice.

Last spring, like many years before, we sat for the final time of the season under a sky full of stars, eyes salty and glowing like little kids’. The next morning, we’d head back to civilization. A giant shooting star blazed across the sky. We sat in silence, hand in hand, reflecting on the past months, deeply fulfilled and already pumped for the next Outback mission…